Text and Photos by Shirley J. Brown
Tonight, in the southern part of Jamaica, the moon rises before the sun sets across the mountains. From the moonlit balcony of my hotel room, I can watch the mullet fishermen stringing their nets across Alligator Pond River. Along the deserted beach I can see the lights of the small township of Alligator Pond. Silhouetted against the silvery water are the shadows of fishing boats. Far to the north, tourists crowd into dining halls and party rooms of the many all-inclusive resorts ready for another kind of fun.
On the south coast of
Jamaica, the attraction is nature and history. To preserve and protect this area before it
too gets overdeveloped, researchers are studying the mangrove swamps, the springs, the
coral reefs, forests, and the family structures of the local people.
Here, most families work together to farm, raise cattle, mine bauxite, and fish. Many of the people in this region claim to be descendants of shipwrecked Scottish sailors. In the villages, it's not unusual to see blond hair, blue eyes, light skin.
My guide and host, Delwin Rochester, claims descent from the Scots. Though he lives and works in Atlanta these days, he spends plenty of time near his family's holdings in the region. He's a diver, and he hopes mightily to one day discover the wreck of some ancestral ship out among the unexplored reefs. Rochester has been instrumental in training other people in his home village to dive and he has taught his enthusiasm for preserving the reefs.
As the sun comes up over the mountains, smoke rises from the village. Dogs bark at the fishermen hauling boats toward the sea. Bongo, a mullet fisherman, wants to show me where crocodiles sleep along the Alligator Pond River. I step gingerly into the canoe and try not to sit on the night's catch.
White egrets nest by the thousands in the mangroves. As we paddle along, they take flight, distracting the John Crows from the work of drying their gigantic wings. In the first available light, turtles sun themselves, resting on twisted mangrove roots. Bongo spots a crocodile, but it's soon gone.
After breakfast of ackee and salt fish, we load into the resort's four-wheel-drive truck and head east along the coast. The terrain changes from lush and green to dry, sparsely grassed, and cactus-filled. Then it's back to mangrove swamp and jungle lush.
God's Well is a sink hole high in the hills. Trained cave divers have entered the sink hole and penetrated a considerable distance into the limestone tunnels. From here, this water flows through the rock and into a beautiful river with an unkind name, Guts River. Here the rock formation holds a 20-foot pool of water. A school of mullet circle at the bottom. When I dive in, it seems as if I'm looking through air rather than water. I can look toward the surface and see nearly perfect palm trees and my companions.
We pass several other springs on our way to Alligator Hole River. The region is home to a series of small waterways that twist and turn through the elephant grass and mangrove. In the water, I spot the unmistakable shape of a manatee. This turns out to be one of four females under study by the National Resources Conservation Authority of Jamaica. During a recent aerial observation project, only 100 manatees were sighted in the waters of Jamaica.
Executing a backward roll from a small boat into unknown waters is always exciting. Getting oriented, I feel the eyes of a platoon of barracudas surveying me. They follow me to the reef through a swirling school of pin fish. As the fish depart, I watch a turtle that appears to be colliding with the reef. Large coral heads fight for space with the sponges and soft corals. Every nook and cranny is home to some critter.
The tongue-and-grove reef of Francis Grass is extensive, and I am able only to explore a tiny piece of it before coming to the surface. Leon and Down, my dive guides, are waiting to haul me and my gear into the fishing canoe. Excitement is high as they tell me about a school of eagle rays they've seen.
On a tiny sand spit about ten miles from shore, I join in the preparations for lunch feast, fishermen style. Whole fish, thyme, and scallions simmer in a pot above an open fire. Fresh baked cassava bread is at hand to mop our plates clean. Fishermen clean their nets on this island. Their scraps attract rays and nurse sharks into the shallows.
Nearby, a sea mount called Paradise beckons. Large sea fans and elk horn corals predominate at this 30-foot dive. The surge is challenging, especially for taking pictures. So for the next few minutes, I ignore my camera and join the other divers playing tag with the nurse sharks, turtles, and a shy jew fish. Delwin pops out of one of the crevices behind a nurse shark. Afterward, I'm exhausted and exhilarated both, glad to be heading for shore.
While serving a
breakfast of spicy fish, Ugger, the cook, introduces me to Damage, the local cave guide.
We hike through Sea Riv Resort's manicured grounds and up into the hills. Areas in the
dense bush have been cleared for vegetable plots. Damage uses his machete to cut a path to
enter the caves. In the gloom, I can see stalactites and stalagmites and hear chirping.
Quite suddenly, the cave is alive with the action of hundreds of tiny fruit bats trying to
get out. The hills are cut through with caves. Those and the dense bush make this area a
haven for all kinds of wildlife.
Further to the west, the town of Black River rests on the longest navigable river in Jamaica. Once the center for sugar cane and molasses export, Black River retains the feeling of a bygone age. Here, grand old hotels are being restored to their former glory.
The river itself is the home of the Jamaican crocodile and a vast number of birds. For many years, guide Charles Swaby has introduced people to the river and its inhabitants. I had never considered crocodiles to be friendly. On this water safari, however, Charles introduced me to his pet crocodile, Herman. The crocodiles along the banks of Black River spend about four hours in the sun to keep their body temperatures up. Cruising along I see several sun bathers, birds lunching on moon snails nearby. The boat captain catches shrimp in wicker basket trap.
Local women cook the shrimp with spices and sell one-pound bags to passersby from their vegetable stands. Their stands are brilliantly painted to attract trade. Some have wheels. Some can be steered. We see numbers of these stands along Bamboo Alley on our way to the falls. Here, the bamboo grows so tall that it forms an enclosed arch above the road.
Not long after departing our green tunnel of bamboo, we arrive at Y.S. Farm. Supposedly the initials come from a combination of the initials of the original owners, who held it in 1684. The property has been in the Browne family since 1887, and it includes 2,500 acres of cultivated land. Huge guango trees shade the pastures that hold pedigreed Red Poll cattle and thoroughbred horses. Transport to the falls from the farm is by tractor-towed trailer.
The sounds of raging water echo through the trees long before the falls come into view. They are a magnificent sight. From the top of a mountain ridge, foaming water cascades. The water tumbles along rock bluffs forming pools along the way, then thunders over three ledges and tames itself into mere rapids as it moves off through the trees. Wooden steps have been built near the falls. Here, they say, you have a 95 percent chance of rain on any day. We aren't disappointed.
Life guards are on hand to guide swimmers to the back of the falls. Behind the falls, the water pounds. Looking out through the waterfall is phenomenal, and the swim back offers a good workout.
On the south side of Jamaica, you'll find adventure and attractions some might not have known to expect. You'll run into far more Jamaicans than fellow tourists. You might even get taken into peoples' homes, and they might serve you up some tea and stories.
Jamaica has two international airports: Montego Bay and Kingston.
Air Jamaica has direct flights daily from gateways in New York, Atlanta, Miami, Washington, Philadelphia, Orlando, Canada, and London. For information, call (800) 523-5585.
United Airlines and American Airlines also fly into Jamaica from the United States. Many other flights are available from Europe, Latin America, and the Caribbean.
You can reach the south coast easily with maps and a rented car. Major and local car rental companies are situated at both airports. Most accept credit cards. Remember, you must drive on the left-hand side of the road.
Taxis to the south coast are available from Montego Bay, and tour operators can also arrange excursions.
Sea Riv Resort is the sole accommodation at Alligator Pond. It has 18 rooms with either ocean or mountain views. The hotel is situated on the beach, and its grounds cover 20 acres. The resort offers scuba diving, fishing, snorkeling, canoeing, hiking, and tours. Special all-inclusive packages can be arranged for divers, hikers, and naturalists. Tours include transfer from Montego Bay airport, home-style Jamaican cooking, and beverages. The resort has two boats and many knowledgeable guides.
Since Alligator Pond is in an undeveloped region of the country, it is wise to bring everything you might need. Mosquito repellent is a must, as are suntan lotion and film. Entertainment is arranged on some evenings. For more information or reservations, call Delwin Rochester at (404) 952-7711, or write 3220 Cobb Parkway, Atlanta, Georgia, 30339.
Black River is home to several hotels. Information about those and the north coast resorts can be had by calling the Jamaica Tourist Board in New York, Washington, Miami, or Atlanta.
Shirley J. Brown is a writer and photographer who lives in Panama city, Florida, and specializes in underwater subjects.